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Where We're Dining: The Libertine

Where We're Dining: The Libertine

At The Libertine, seasonal cocktails, an Industrial Age-aesthetic and ingredient-driven food combine in a relaxed environment. If there were a checklist for creating a new American restaurant in 2013, it would look like this. Chef Josh Galliano is behind the inventive menu at Libertine, which is deftly run by Nick and Audra Luedde.

Together they’ve created what they call a “watering hole” and we consider a new favorite. She-crab soup with blue crab spring rolls is light as air, jeweled with sherry pearls that burst sweetly on the palate. Bone marrow custard and uni adorn a slice of rustic bread, the richness offset by bitter greens and an acidic vinaigrette. Pig tails, frog legs, deep-water hake...it’s refreshing to see the variety of proteins on offer. It’s equally refreshing to see such attention paid to veggies. Ash-roasted carrots are stellar, the grilled king mushrooms in dashi are a can’t miss, and every Libertine meal should start with the “twisted” peppers. 

The Libertine, 7927 Forsyth Blvd., Clayton, 314.862.2999, libertinestl.com

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Catherine Neville is the publisher of Feast Magazine and producer of Emmy-winning Feast TV.

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