Whether meandering through a far-off field or shopping at your local market, this fall you’ll likely come across an army of pumpkins – a sea of quirky shapes, sizes and colors that beg to be stacked in jaunty piles on your porch. You, dear reader, can do better than that, though. Once you know which varieties to buy, how to safely cut them and all the delightful things you can do with their innards, pumpkins will forever do double duty as a delicious ingredient in your kitchen.
1. Pick of the Patch
Next time you’re picking pumpkins, keep a lookout for these fantastic cooking pumpkins, whose beauty runs far deeper than the surface.
Types of Pumpkins
A pumpkin-patch favorite because kids can actually carry it, the Baby Pam has a smooth, perfectly round surface and a thick, comically oversized stem. Its smaller size makes it easy to handle, and the sweet flesh shines in pies and cakes.
Mention Cinderella pumpkins and you know exactly what you’re in for: Short and impossibly wide with a vivid red-orange hue that’s occasionally mottled with green, they certainly stand out from the crowd. The orange flesh – pale by comparison – is at home in savory and sweet dishes.
The Musquée de Provence/Fairy Tale is a dramatic choice, with a body that unfurls outward rather than upward. A French heirloom pumpkin that averages 15 to 20 pounds each, you might see them shot through with green or orange tones, but when they ripen, they’re saddle brown with a deep orange flesh that’s sweet but great for roasting as well.
Hailing from New Zealand, the Jarrahdale is perhaps the spookiest pumpkin, with a bluish-gray exterior that calls to mind the wooly rind of an aged cheese. Against the rind, the interior is a jarring sunset orange, thick, dry and complex in flavor. Use this one for roasting rather than sweet applications.
As white as the moon – and nearly as round – the Lumina is wonderful for carving, but let’s try eating it this year. Medium-sized with delicate ribbing, the ghostly exterior hides bright orange flesh, sweet and smooth when roasted or baked.
With brown barnacle-like growths peppering its pale pink-orange exterior, the Peanut can look a little creepy. But those growths are simply sugar that’s bubbled out as the pumpkin’s grown. It’s weird but worth a chance, as its sweet flesh works well for almost any baking or cooking project.
Like the name suggests, the Red Warty is vibrant red and bumpy – it’s pretty in its own way. Round as a basketball, it’s just as fun to carve faces into it as it is to bake; the pale orange, fine-grained flesh flows easily from sweet to savory territories.
Right now, you can’t go to the grocery store without seeing Sugar, or Pie, pumpkins. Compact and standard pumpkin orange, they’re technically a member of the winter squash family along with acorn, butternut and kabocha. This is a classic pick for roasting and puréeing for pie.
The Winter Luxury is another delicious choice, globular with pale orange skin that looks lighter from a distance due to a white, net-like texture that graces it like fresh snow. The flesh – sweet, velvety and as orange as the exterior – is perfect for baking and roasting.
2. Scrumptious Seeds
Not all pumpkin seeds are created equal. In fact, most pumpkins are bred for a specific purpose: tasty flesh for baking, beautiful exterior for decorating or fuss-free seeds for roasting.
To try your hand at roasting pumpkin seeds, start by choosing the right pumpkin. Styrian pumpkins produce those gorgeous, dark-green seeds that you find in stores; they’re large and have no hull, which means they don’t have that white, chewy exterior like other pumpkin seeds that you’ve tried – and failed – to roast in the past. Ignore the online recipes for roasting those white, flaky shams that fall out of your jack-o’-lantern and call your local pumpkin patch to inquire about “seed pumpkins” – Kakai is another great option.
Once you’ve located the right variety, choose a few big ones, as they have more seeds. Also, go for hollow, not heavy, pumpkins: The heavier the pumpkin, the more flesh, whereas a hollow sound indicates space in the center that should be flush with seeds. At home, crack the pumpkins open and scoop out the goods. Pick the seeds out with your fingers and then rinse them in a colander, shaking and stirring them with your hand to loosen any clinging pulp, until they’re completely clean. Spread them out on towels and let them sit until they feel completely dry.
The Soak
If you choose to just buy raw pumpkin seeds at the store, this is where you come in. You might have heard that soaking raw almonds in water helps boost their nutritional value and increase their digestibility; the same holds true for pumpkin seeds. Additionally, soaking the seeds in saline water overnight will help them get extra crispy in the oven, thus creating the perfect fall snack.
For every 2 to 3 cups of seeds, use 1 tablespoon of kosher salt and enough water to entirely cover the seeds. Stir water and salt until salt has dissolved; add raw pumpkin seeds and let soak, at least 8 hours or overnight. Remove seeds from water and dry thoroughly.
The Roast
Roasting seeds isn’t about blasting them with intense heat; rather, it’s a lower, slower roast that adheres flavor to the seeds and crisps them up nicely. For the seasoning, you can go in myriad directions: Keep it simple with salt and pepper, mix it up with curry powder or garam masala or embrace the PSL (pumpkin spice latte) with a combination of cinnamon, sugar, clove and ginger. Cumin, coriander and chili powder are universally loved as well, as is a “classic ranch” mix of dried herbs.
Preheat oven to 325ºF. Use 1 teaspoon of cooking oil for every 1 cup of pumpkin seeds; toss until coated. Sprinkle with desired herbs and spices; toss to incorporate. Generously season with more kosher salt. On a lipped baking sheet, spread out seeds in a single layer; bake until seeds are toasted and crispy, 20 to 25 minutes, stirring halfway through. Remove from oven and let cool completely on baking sheet. Once cooled, store roasted pumpkin seeds in canning jars.
3. Slice and Dice
Pumpkins are hard winter squashes, with an emphasis on “hard.” Their tough exterior helps keep the flesh fresh all season long, but it’s no picnic to cut. Strategy matters here – your fingers are at stake – so I suggest following these steps to get through the process unscathed.
How to Cut a Pumpkin
Flatten the surface. Pumpkins can have wobbly bottoms, making it tricky to hold them still as you cut. If yours seems extremely off balance, tilt it on its side and shave off the problem areas.
Dig in. While some vegetables require horizontal cuts, pumpkins need a forceful vertical cut to pierce the skin. Position the tip of your knife near the center of the pumpkin (just off to the side), hold it securely and use your weight to plunge it into the top of the pumpkin and straight down to your work surface. Note: Refer to your favorite horror flick for inspiration.
Pull the Lever. Holding the other side of the pumpkin to steady it, push the knife down like a lever, making a crescent-shaped cut down the side of the pumpkin, from the top to the bottom.
Repeat. Take the knife out, spin the pumpkin around and repeat the process on the other side.
Crack It Open. Flip the pumpkin over – if necessary, connect your cuts – and then use your hands to pull the two halves apart.
Spoon Out the Seeds. Using a large spoon, remove the seeds and pulp from the center of the pumpkin.
Continue Cutting. Set both halves cut-side down and continue to carefully but firmly slice and dice the pumpkin to suit your needs.
4. And Then There’s Pie
Phew, you’ve finished the hard part. Now, what’s the best way to enjoy your prepared pumpkin pieces?
For an easier cold-weather side, simply toss 1-inch-thick slices with olive oil and roast on a baking sheet. For flavor, snuggle some fresh herbs such as sage, thyme and rosemary next to the pumpkin, or throw ground spices such as cumin, chili powder, coriander, Aleppo pepper and turmeric in with the oil as you toss.
You can also make your own pumpkin purée for pies, quick breads and muffins – it’s a cinch, trust me. Once you’ve halved your pie pumpkin and removed the seeds and pulp, set each half cut-side down on a baking sheet. Preheat oven to 400ºF and then roast until tender, 35 to 45 minutes. Remove from oven and allow to cool enough to handle. Scrape flesh from skin; transfer to a food processor and process until butter-smooth, 4 to 5 minutes. Allow purée to cool completely before transferring it to freezer-safe containers; store in freezer for up to 3 months.
Note: Homemade pumpkin purée is runnier (by degrees) than the canned variety, so factor that in when using it in recipes.
5. Recipe
Make the bread anytime and freeze it until you’re ready to complete the stuffing.
